Line of Departure

Musings of a US Army reservist and China expat deployed to Iraq

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Lessons in Iraqi culture part 2

 
Last night, I'm having one of those dreams where there is a repeating sound, and it gets louder and more insistent until you finally half-wake to figure out that it's coming from real life.  CLANG-CLANG-CLANG....CLANG-CLANG-CLANG.  I heard this repeat 4 or 5 times, then resigned myself that it wasn't going away.  Usually, when there is an indirect fire attack, they use the "Big Voice" or loudspeaker warning system that blankets the base.  I figured that either it was broken, or the Iraqis were running a drill.  If it was a drill, I thought as the sole American representative, I was duty-bound to set a good example and play along. 
 
Back in the days when we thought that all our enemies were going to use nuclear, biological, or chemical weapons, we had it pounded into our heads that the sound of metal on metal meant an imminent attack.  I don't know if that also applies to rocket attacks (which is the common threat in Iraq now), but I assumed so.
 
I stuck my head out and saw an Iraqi guy running around sounding the alarm.  I got his attention and mimed a rocket coming in.  He nodded.  So, I got my body armor and helmet on and headed out towards the bunker.  They had fenced it off since I was last there.  I had to walk all the way around, wondering the whole time why I didn't see any other Iraqis.  I got to the concrete bunker and there was no one in it.  That was not totally surprising, since Iraqis tend to blow off alarms.
 
I tracked down the guy ringing the alarm and repeated my rocket pantomime.  THis time, he shook his head and responded with the universal fingers together pointing at his mouth.  I looked down at my watch which read 3am and it all made sense.  He was signalling the last meal before sunrise for Ramadan.  They just happened to pick the same sound that means chemical attack to us.  I had to laugh and went back to sleep for a few hours.

Monday, September 7, 2009

Day 150: "Building whose foundations create terror"


I've been at my "second home" for the past few days for a conference set up by this brigade to share its insights and recommendations on being one of the first specially designated "advise and assist" brigades. My own organization, the Center for Army Lessons Learned defines this as: "a modular brigade combat team augmented, based on the requirements of the operational environment, with enabling assets and capabilities to support a distributed security force assistance mission." It's all the rage right now.

When you strip away the hype, all this really means is that an AAB, about 3000-4000 soldiers strong, is no longer focused on fighting a counter-insurgency fight, but on stability operations and advising and assisting a host nation's own security forces (army, police, border security) and its government. It is really a difference in mindset -- in the words of the average joe -- from "blowing up sh*t" to teaching the Iraqi (or Afghan or [insert third-world country we've defeated here]) forces how to train themselves and the Iraqi government how to run itself and be legitimate. It's a pretty far step from where we saw the Army's role in 2003, which was to defeat the Iraqi Army and then go home. It's also the next evolution from the seize, hold, and build strategy used in previous years.

The problem? It takes us very far from our core competency and has us doing things that historically the military has never really been doing. When field artillerymen and tankers are learning how to be administrators of reconstruction funding and serving as project oversight for rebuilding projects, it necessarily takes them away from their ability to shoot big bullets when we need them to. And in Afghanistan, there is this need. The idea is that AABs will support the civilian Provincial Reconstruction Teams (6-15 person teams of specialists) from the State Department who will lead the stabilization effort. However, I've seen that the State Department right now isn't able to field the experts who can do this job. Despite being paid salaries ranging between $200-400k, some of these spots go unfilled or are filled with contractors who are unsuitable -- imagine an econ PhD who has no actual business experience.

Anyhow, the brigade did a good job of putting together a 3 day conference, which probably could have been 2 days. First day was good -- lots of multifunctional team discussion, but the final messages that were briefed to the big shots were mostly taken from a few dominant voices and some of the opposing viewpoints never made it. That's the military way -- makes me wonder if during some of the civilian breakout groups that I've organized, if I've ever been one of those voices that overpowered the others.

Enough boring stuff....I took around some of the Division and Corps folks to see the biblical Ziggurat of Ur, which is just outside the camp's security perimeter. Built an estimated 4000 years ago with similar characteristics as the Tower of Babil, the ziggurat actually means, "building whose foundations create terror!" The ancient Babylonians were big into buildings that reached to the skies and the ziggurat was the momma one of them all. The ancient city of Ur where it was situated was also the birthplace of the prophet Abraham. Although we couldn't actually get to the site, I took them along the fenceline to a security tower (manned by our friendly Ugandan contract security guards) where they could climb and take some good shots in the setting sun. One group even had a photo op with a pair of Apache helicopter gunships flying overhead. When I was getting ready to return with the second group, one of them pointed out that we had a flat. It was almost a joke -- took 6 senior officers and non-coms almost a half hour to get the tire changed because no one was familiar with where everything was on an armored Suburban. Finally we got it done and I was a little red-faced to return a borrowed vehicle with a flat tire in the back.

I had dinner with TL, the deputy team leader of the Dhi Qar provincial reconstruction team. We had met on a previous visit, when I interviewed him to gauge the military-civilian interaction, and this was a follow up visit (depressing, but a topic for another day). This was more of a social chat too... T is a career State Department guy and had been posted all throughout Asia. His Indonesian wife and two kids were actually in Beijing right now. So, we got along the way you do when you meet another expat. He returns in Feb, but departs China to go back to Indonesia in June of next year, so we traded info and hope to meet up in a different place. Small world.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Day 145: Mr. Culturally Sensitive

So, I thought I would be a good citizen, try and contribute something besides misery to the Iraqi military community that I'm a part of, and get a little cross-cultural exchange going, so I invited the Iraqis to the Army 10-Mile race that I'm running in tomorrow.  The Band commander also was very interested to do some sort of music exchange with them, so I suggested that as well.
 
As I finished chatting with the Deputy Commander, another truck with my pals, LT Mohammed and the medic, "Doc" SA, pulled up.  I said hello, then asked them if they had eaten yet.  They both said no.  I asked them if they wanted to get some lunch (and added, "with lots of ice cream")  Doc SA says, almost regretfully, "Sorry, I am fasting." 
 
Doh.  I knew that, but it didn't process.  I felt like a dick.